The Machu Picchu Mistake

9:30pm, the night before my visit to Machu Picchu. I leap out of bed and race for the toilet. “Esta ocupado,” whispers a dorm-mate. But I’ve already slammed into the door and the poor girl inside – merely trying to brush her teeth – opens up. Before I can speak, the first retch comes. I […]

Being & Doing in the Sacred Valley

The morning the rain came through the Sacred Valley was the happiest I’d been all week. It was surprising, at first; I’d made big plans. An appointment with a healer in Pisac, a trip to the thermal baths at Lares, even a hike up to the nearby ruins to camp overnight. Overkill, to be sure. […]